Perched above the River Rance with cobbled streets and timber-framed houses, Dinan feels like a memory of medieval Brittany that is frozen in time. In a region full of coastal drama and rugged landscapes, this inland town offers quiet cobblestone streets, high walls and slow mornings. The kind of place that rewards wandering without a care or sitting on a terrace and letting the world pass you by. If you are visiting Brittany I am sure you already have the town of Dinan on your list. There is plenty to do in Dinan and I recommend spending at least a couple of days there, but the following is a suggestion on how to spend twenty four hours in this magical town.
This isn’t a checklist. It’s a paced day – places I love, moments worth lingering over and a way to feel the old town as locals do.
Here in Dinan I recommend Boulangerie Hebert. Open every day except Sunday. This boulangerie is right in the heart of Dinan and has two entrances.
Look beyond the delights that you see on the counter and you will see their enormous rotating oven that bakes everything here to perfection.
A classic croissant or pain au chocolat from here is the best way to start your day in Dinan.
Lunch & Local Flavours
Once you reach the port you can admire Dinan from a completely different angle. It feels like a separate town. Dwarfed by the viaduct that crosses the river at the towns level. Walk along the promenade and admire all the boats anchored here. There are also many cafés and crêperies at the port.
While you are at the port there is another boulangerie that you cannot miss – Gât & Vous. Famous for one thing in particular. Kouign-Amann (queen-a-man). A Breton delicacy that you will find in every boulangerie in Brittany. But you won’t find them more perfectly baked than on this corner. Try the classic or my favourite, raspberry Kouign-Amann. You can thank me later for all the buttery goodness.
Put down the Kouign-Amann! For now. By lunchtime you’ll have earned a long sit on a terrace in the sunshine or in a warm restaurant filled with inviting smells.
While there are many options at the port, there is only one for me. Les Roger-Bontemps. You cross the medieval bridge and the restaurant is on your left. It has the best view, looking back up at Dinan and across the river. On a sunny summers day sit out on the terrace and you will feel like you’re right on the water. You will be seated based on what is available, so you might end up making some new friends.
The menu is French and limited daily based on the fresh ingredients in the kitchen. You will find a varied menu; simple salads, seafood platters, cheese plates and burgers. Everything is homemade and fresh.
If you are a beer lover, you’ll be excited to hear that Les Roger-Bontemps also brews its own beer. It is a registered brasserie and they have several refreshing beverages to choose from.
An Afternoon Stroll
Refreshed and fortified, the bend of the Rance river waits like a quiet invitation; just around the corner, if you’re feeling energised then continue your exploration.
If you were to head north, the river becomes an estuary and opens out to the channel between Dinard and Saint Malo. However, today, you are heading south. Just a 30 minute walk along the river you will find the village of Léhon. It is so close to Dinan that it is barely its own village anymore but after a relatively short stroll along the flat river path, you have again found one of Dinan’s jewels.
As you approach the village you will see, across the bank and through the trees, a 12th century Abbey. It was the monks of the former Benedictine Abbey that built Léhon when they arrived here in 850.
Then, if you take a stroll through the village itself, you will see why Léhon is officially recognised as one of France’s Petites Cités de Caractère, a designation for towns with outstanding heritage and charm. Here, the locals take pride in maintaining the greenery and flowers that you will see throughout the village. The ancient architecture and quiet cobbled streets are charming.
Then, you can make your way back to the port of Dinan the same way you came or wander the village, past the abbey and find Rue du Moulin au Duc where you can climb a set of stairs and then follow the road up and loop back into the centre of Dinan town.
Firstly, there is the Saint Sauveur. Find this bar opposite the Saint Sauveur basilica, Place Saint Sauveur. On a summer evening you can sit out on the terrace under the trees that surround the square. Inside, it feels almost like an English pub thanks to its historic 15th century setting. If you’re visiting during the colder months, you’ll find a roaring fire inside too. They offer a large menu of drinks and aperitif snacks.
Another great choice is Les Oiseaux de Passage. Nestled in amongst medieval buildings, the interior is something altogether different. Styled like a flea-market with arcade games, cinema seats, posters, marbles, jars, instruments and all manner of things hanging from the walls and ceilings. The owners of the bar are a warm and welcoming. Choose from their independent local beer selection.
Hotel Arvor sits in the heart of Dinan’s medieval quarter, timber frames rising overhead and quiet lanes just outside the door. It feels embedded in the town rather than added to it. Rooms are elegantly simple, with subtle nods to Breton craftsmanship, and some overlook the cobbles where morning light lingers longest. A natural choice for staying within the rhythm of the old town.
La Maison Pavie is less a hotel and more a thoughtfully curated B&B in the historic centre. Calm, understated and quietly refined, it offers space to settle in rather than simply check in. The kind of place where morning coffee stretches unhurriedly and an afternoon pause before dinner feels entirely appropriate.
When I return to Dinan, it’s rarely for a single monument or view. It’s for the sensation of walking those same stones again. The slow descent to the river, the steady climb back toward the ramparts and the reminder that some towns reveal themselves best when given time.
Practical Info – How to Get to Dinan
This guide is based on the idea that you arrived the night before and have woken up ready to explore. So how did you get here?
The nearest airport is in Rennes. If you’re travelling from the UK, Easyjet fly into Rennes from London Gatwick.
Trains from Rennes run to Dinan via Dol De Bretagne. The journey takes around 1 hour 25 minutes and the train station is just outside the centre of Dinan. Making it very easy to walk everywhere from the station.
There is also the number 7 bus that runs from Rennes train station to Dinan. You can find the timetable at Breizhgo.
All public transport from Paris will takes you via Rennes.
Explore Dinan on Foot
Need a quicker overview? Follow my suggested walking route past Dinan’s main sights with this downloadable walking guide.
View the Dinan Walking Guide